Our 3D laser scanner, Leica BLK360, played a role in this latest archaeological project to learn more about the visitors who left behind ancient graffiti in the Egyptian Philae Temple complex.
The Philae Temple complex is, technically, no longer on Philae. In the late 1970s, it was carefully disassembled and moved, block by block, to Agilkia, a higher island a quarter-mile downriver, after Philae was flooded by the construction of the Aswan High Dam. Still, Isis’ rebuilt temple retains its power to inspire awe, looming over the Nile as visitors approach in flat-bottomed river boats, much as pilgrims might have done in the age of the pharaohs.
“That ferry ride never ceases to amaze me,” says Sabrina Higgins, an archaeologist at Simon Fraser University in British Columbia and a co-leader of the Canadian research team. “To go to Philae feels as if you are stepping back in time.”
It’s easy to imagine the festivals and rituals that once took place here, Higgins says—the flotillas bearing effigies of the gods, the solemn re-enactments of Osiris’ funeral rites. That’s especially true early in the morning, before all the tourists arrive, when the island is the sole domain of hundreds of feral cats, who are fed by workers there, in a throwback to the age when Egyptians considered felines to be divine. It’s also the time of day when, thanks to the angle of the sun, the graffiti is easiest to capture in photographs.
Much of Philae’s graffiti consists of prayers and names in Demotic script, a form of Egyptian writing that succeeded hieroglyphics, used primarily by priests and officials in an era when few people could read and write. Higgins and her colleagues, though, are concentrating on figural graffiti, which range from humans and animals (often representing a god) to game boards likely carved by Isis’ priests for diversion during their off hours. A falcon in flight honors Isis’ son Horus, the great god commonly depicted with the head of a bird of prey. A crude line drawing of a horse is set so high on a wall that the artist must have been sitting on the roof with his legs dangling over the edge.
“The figures are at least as interesting” as textual graffiti, says Jitse Dijkstra, a classicist at the University of Ottawa, who has been studying Philae’s graffiti for more than 20 years and was among the first scholars to examine it seriously. Dijkstra began the current survey in 2016 with his Ottawa colleague Roxanne Bélanger Sarrazin. Higgins joined the project in 2020 and later recruited Nicholas Hedley, a geographer at Simon Fraser who has previously worked with oceanographers to map the seafloor and with NASA to model the surface of Mars. Hedley contributed his expertise in digital visualization, plus a dazzling array of high-tech gadgetry, which the team believes will one day be central to future graffiti projects.
Hedley began his survey with photogrammetry, a technique originally developed for architectural surveying in the 19th century that has become increasingly powerful since the advent of digital photography. Digital photogrammetry uses a mosaic of hundreds of overlapping images, each captured from a slightly different angle, to construct a high-definition, three-dimensional representation of each surface—not only walls but also rooftops, stairwells and the sides of columns. But photogrammetry requires unbroken light, which can be rare in the Philae complex, so on a subsequent trip, Hedley brought a brand-new piece of technology: a small, powerful laser scanner, about the size of a soda can. Even in the temple’s darkest recesses, the device could capture images of graffiti that may have been unseen by human eyes for centuries.
“That was a game changer,” Bélanger Sarrazin says of the new, portable laser scanner. “In 2016, we were still using tracing paper on the walls. Later, we changed to doing drawings from photographs, but sometimes on the photographs we don’t see all the details, the depths, the texture of the wall and the graffiti in its context.”
Context can reveal a lot about where pilgrims were allowed to go, which areas were limited to priests and how worshipers chose to express their devotion. On a Zoom call from his office at Simon Fraser, Hedley walks me through a 3D model-in-progress and notes a particular concentration of graffiti just outside the most hallowed part of the temple, where people apparently chipped off pieces of sandstone as souvenirs. The human-made gouges and the graffiti in this spot, Hedley says, suggest that many worshipers were prevented from entering and instead crowded outside. “There would’ve been thresholds of access,” Hedley says. “This was the holiest of holies.”